Journey to Joburg

 Johannesburg was a short trip but an incredibly enlightening one.We didn't spend much time in the heart of the city, but we could tell that the city had an entirely different vibe than Cape Town. Cape Town is surrounded by a mountain range and so when you look up, no matter where you are, a mountain is looming in the background. It was strange being in a completely flat place with no ocean and mountains to be seen. It was a lot less green and much more industrial. There were many little hills around the city which were built up from the waste from the mines that gave Johannesburg its nickname- "The City of Gold."

The Apartheid Museum

One aspect of apartheid that I was shocked by was the racial classifications. Both before and throughout the years of apartheid, everyone was required to carry a pass that designated the person's race.The passes had to be carried at all times. A policeman could stop anyone on the street at any time, and if they didn't have their pass, or their pass papers weren't in order they were taken to jail and could be held there for any length of time. What I didn't know was that South Africans could appeal to the courts to change their race classifications. They could also complain if they thought someone's racial classification was incorrect. Because during the apartheid years one's social status was closely tied to their race, race classifications were incredibly important as it largely determined one's treatment in society. As a result, about 1,000 people ended up switching their race. Above are some examples.

Here is a sampling of some of the signs designating non-European facilities from European facilities. Not so different from the signs present in the American South during segregation.

131 people were assassinated by the government for opposing them, both white and black. Their opposition was designated as terrorist activities, and under that guise they were allowed to imprison and torture whoever publicly opposed the government's violation of human rights. Steve Biko, a black anti-apartheid activist, is one of the most prominent victims of government assassination. He was tortured to death while in prison. Several white people who vocally opposed the apartheid were killed as well with methods such as poison and letter bombs. This was happening in the 1970s and 80s, which was so incredibly recent. One of the most interesting parts about studying abroad in South Africa is that apartheid ended and democracy began during my lifetime. It makes the history here seem so real and as a result even more shocking.

The backpacker (what South Africans call hostels) that we stayed at was in an old house and was beautiful. They had two adorable but huge dogs we got to hang out with as well.

On Friday night, we went to Monte Casino, which is like a mini Las Vegas. The ceilings are painted as the sky, some day and some night, and it is Italian themed and is supposed to simulate the streets of Italy. It was completely unexpected that there would be a collection of restaurants and shops like this in the middle of South Africa. Places like Las Vegas and Atlantic City seem like symbols of America. I had no idea that places such as these were popular outside of the U.S., but it was incredibly crowded. We saw a play there that night called the Mandela Trilogy, which was about the many different stages of Mandela's life. I really enjoyed seeing his life acted out after I had read so much about him at the Apartheid Museum.

That bridge in the middle of this picture is where people bungee jump from. It is right next to Soweto, one of the townships in Johannesburg.

This is the tribute to the Freedom Charter, which was drafted in Klipton in 1955 by several different resistance organizations and is considered a very important document of the ANC.

The ceiling of the landmark is an X, to symbolize the vote. Voters display their preferences with an X, and as one of the provisions that the freedom charter called for universal franchise, the X was an appropriate symbol.

The Freedom Charter preamble: South Africa belongs to all who live in it, black and white, and that no government can justly claim authority unless it is based on the will of all the people

This four star hotel, the Soweto hotel, is right next to a township called Klipton which is home to 48,000 people and has 100 water taps. See picture below. It was really weird for me to see the two immediately next to each other. The hotel was completely empty, which is common at hotels in South Africa these days. Many thought that the World Cup would provide an increase in tourism afterward, but the effects of that have yet to be seen. There isn't much traveling happening now as a result of the recession, but I'm still surprised that more people aren't here. Its such an amazing place to visit and I've been loving traveling within the country.

Klipton

The token snack food of Soweto. Its essentially multicolored popcorn and is slightly sweet. Yem.

This is a very popular game in South Africa, and though I can't remember the name right now, but it is like a massive game of Mancala.

Nelson Mandela's old house. He lived right across the street from Desmond Tutu, and their street is the only one in the world to house two Nobel prize winners.

We had lunch in our tour guide's restaurant in her home in Soweto. She spoiled us with all this food, but we got to try some of Soweto's most delicious dishes.

 

In the afternoon, I went to University of Witswatersrand, or Wits (pronounced Vits) to visit my friend Sibu. I spent the afternoon seeing Sibu's university and having some great conversation. Sibu has an incredible life story. He grew up in Inanda, a town right outside Durban in a house that had no electricity. His class size was 60 people to one teacher, and he had to teach himself many subjects. He really really wanted to go to college, but there were no scholarships to  be found. When my family met him five years ago at a dinner party in Boston, he had been accepted to a program that brought motivated South African students to tour the states and see what the world could offer them. My parents, being the coolest parents that I know, said that if he could get into a university, they would sponsor it. Sibu is now in his second semester of his third year and doing awesome. He is such an inspiration and I'm so happy to have him as a friend. 

Sibu and I cheering on the Kaizer Cheifs, Johannesburg's soccer team and one of the best soccer teams in the country. Even though they were playing Cape Town, I supported the Cheifs because they are known for having one of the most hectic (South Africans replace hectic for crazy and it has a few other meanings, such as intense) fan environment in South Africa.

Stadium where the World Cup opener and final were played. It was weird going to a game here after being so invested in the World Cup. I watched the final in an apartment in Cadiz with one of my best friends Caroline, our friend Middy, and then about 15 Spanish guys who were obviously born and raised hardcore Spanish soccer fans. It was an experience I will never forget, and it was awesome actually being in the place that had been such a significance during my time in Spain.

Johannesburg was such an interesting place, and so much of modern South African history has taken place there. But, at the end of the weekend, I was glad to be heading home to the beautiful city of Cape Town. There's no place like home.